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Writer's pictureElon Jones

Desolation Wilderness Backpacking Guide: How to Plan Your Trip and Get Your Desolation Wilderness Backpacking Permits

What lures us to a place called Desolation? Seriously, who gave it that name and why is it still one of the most traveled areas on the Pacific Coast Trail if it’s so desolate? 


Well, it turns out that – contrary to its name – Desolation is rich in alpine lakes, glacial geology, and bare granite outcroppings. It’s only "desolate" when it comes to forests, which is how it got its name. 


And it’s that lack of forests that allows you to take in the landscape of the high Sierras. 


But to preserve the solitude of this relatively small and open area, there are tight quotas on Desolation Wilderness backpacking permits. 


Whether you plan to hit the trails only during daytime or camp under the clear night sky, permits are necessary, and our Desolation Wilderness backpacking guide below highlights everything you need to know about Desolation Wilderness permits and a brief FAQ of what to expect when backpacking in Desolation Wilderness.


Enjoy the deep blue alpine lake Fontinalis after receiving your desolation wilderness backpacking permits
Lake Fontanalis - Desolation Wilderness

What Are the Desolation Wilderness Trails?


Desolation Wilderness divides their trailhead information by the eastern and western sides of the area — the western trailheads span El Dorado National Forest, and the eastern trailheads are located within the Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit. 


The western part of the wilderness has nine trailheads to choose from: 


  • Loon Lake

  • Lyons

  • Van Vleck

  • Buck Island

  • Rockbound

  • Pyramid Creek (also known as Twin Bridges)

  • Ralston

  • Twin Lakes

  • And Echo Trailhead


The eastern side has six: 


  • Echo Lakes

  • Eagle Falls

  • Mount Tallac

  • Bayview

  • Glen Alpine

  • and Meeks Bay Trailhead


When Should You Start Planning Your Trip?


Because the Desolation Wilderness permits are issued on a quota system and not a lottery, planning ahead is in your favor. 


The reservation system lets backpackers sign up to a maximum of six months in advance. But don’t rule out walk-up permits. During shoulder season, you can get a walk-up permit at the wilderness office as long as the daily quota hasn’t been met. 


You make the reservation by choosing one of the 45 destination zones in Desolation Wilderness. Which zone you choose depends on which trailhead you start at. If you start at the Lyons Trailhead, then you’ll want to reserve a permit for zones 43 Lyons. 


Map of desolation wilderness backpacking permits destination zones
Map of the 45 destination zones and trailheads in the Desolation Wilderness area

Confusing? Yes, but you can make this work in your favor. 


If you’re not set on any one particular trailhead, then you can be flexible with the trailhead you choose. If you’re denied a wilderness permit in one spot, you can move on to the next. You have 44 more chances to get a desolation wilderness permit.


So if the Lyons trailhead has maxed out its quota, then hop over to the Rockbound or Twin Lakes trailheads and see if they still have permits available.


How to get a Desolation Wilderness Backpacking Permit


Desolation Wilderness’s quota lasts from the Friday before Memorial Day to September 30. A different quota applies for signing up to a destination zone, of which there are 45, with a maximum amount of 12 overnight backpackers for the first night of your stay.


From September 30 to the following Friday before Memorial Day, this limit won’t be in place. The application costs $6, and if you get accepted, the per person fee costs $5 for the first night and $10 for up to thirteen nights after (the maximum amount of time your trip can last). Children under 12 years old do not have a per person fee. 


FAQs:


What to Expect while Camping in the Desolation Wilderness Area


Desolation Wilderness spans less than 64,000 acres of land, making it much smaller than other popular California national parks but nonetheless scenic and popular. Bears meddling with your campsite belongings remains a risk, so be sure to keep your food stored in closed containers, as you would at any national park. 


The Caldor Fire burned portions of the wilderness area, and the National Park Service advises backpackers to hike with caution through these parts — the landscape still contains hazards such as fallen trees on the routes you might be planning to take. 


This is an example of why it’s important to research your route and stay up-to-date on weather events — including wildfires. 


Are Dogs Allowed in the Desolation Wilderness Area?


Yes, your dog is welcome in the Desolation Wilderness area. El Dorado County does have a mandatory leash law, however, so make sure you keep your furry friend on a leash.


Are Campfires Allowed in Desolation Wilderness?


Because the Desolation area is extremely susceptible to wildfires, campfires and charcoal are never allowed in the Desolation Wilderness area. So plan on packing in your fuel or making a cold camp.


Can You Camp Anywhere in the Desolation Wilderness Area?


Per Leave No Traces principles, the wilderness area only permits campers 100 feet from a lake, stream, or trail. Special Management Areas have additional restrictions to prevent overcrowding around the lakesides.


You have to stay the first night of your trip within the destination zone you chose in your reservation. After the first night, and until the last day of your trip, you can choose anywhere outside of the destination zone to camp overnight, and you won’t need an additional permit or reservation for those nights. 


Can You Hunt and Fish in Desolation Wilderness?


Yes, you can hunt and fish in Desolation Wilderness. Just be sure to follow California’s hunting and fishing laws


Also understand that not all bodies of water have fish, so be sure to check where all the trout, rainbow fish, mackinaw and more hide before you choose your trailhead and zone. 


Sparce regrowth of alpine forests surrounding a lake with the desolation wilderness backpacking permits in hand.
Phipps Pass - Desolation

Conclusion


Despite the name, Desolation Wilderness offers lots of adventure to backpackers. Its stark granite peaks and sprawling alpine forests offer a stunning balance of high-elevation views and long hikes through endless miles of trees. Its peaceful lakes and busy rivers provide opportunities for fishing, and after a tiring and fun day in the wild, your overnight camping is sure to come with a starry sky and the sounds of nature. 


We hope you get the permits you need to have an amazing trip in this northern California wilderness.


Is There an Easier Way to Get Desolation Wilderness Backpacking Permits?


I’m so glad you asked. While Desolation permits aren't the hardest to obtain, you still have to navigate through the clunky government websites to find the right information and get it done.


At Pathloom, we believe planning your backpacking trip shouldn’t feel like a part time job. 


That’s why we’re creating an all-in-one trip planning app specifically for backpackers. Pathloom helps you discover trails, plan your itinerary, get permits, and receive real-time updates while on the trail. All from one app. 


And we want you to get it first


Register as a Trailblazer today and receive early access when the Pathloom App launches.





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